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Chicago Tribune Home on the Range column
[June 16, 2013]

Chicago Tribune Home on the Range column


Jun 16, 2013 (Chicago Tribune - McClatchy-Tribune Information Services via COMTEX) -- Hiking requires stamina, both physical and mental. So when Ann suggested an urban hike, I panicked. Ann has hiked the Himalayas; she's trekked the tundra. When Ann says hike, I say run.

Still, I agreed. Honestly, I wasn't sure what she meant by urban hike. Sprint the hills of San Francisco? Rappel that pyramid-shaped office tower? I hadn't packed boots or a carabiner or trail mix, just the usual: bad shoes and a good appetite.

We set off on a trail called 24th Street. After a quarter-mile or so, Ann slowed to a prowl. She stopped, pivoted and nabbed a grapefruit Campari doughnut. I bagged a lemon-glazed buttermilk.


We orienteered our way to a Vietnamese grocery known for its banh mi. The sandwiches came stuffed with pate, shrimp or barbecued pork, carrot or daikon or pickles. We stuck with simple: a little pork, a lot of cilantro. We set up camp on a curb and munched.

We made a steep climb, breaking to admire a chewy chocolate puck called friand. We descended, pausing for creamy cheese, meringue-topped cupcakes and salt caramels.

We trudged to the train and rode to Ann's in silence. Maybe she was planning her next urban expedition. I was still thinking about that banh mi. And about how much I like hiking.

Banh mi Prep: 30 minutes, plus wait time Cook: 4 minutes Serves: 6 Ingredients: 3 tablespoons Asian fish sauce 3 tablespoons sugar 2 tablespoons soy sauce 3 scallions, white and tender green, chopped 2 cloves garlic, chopped 1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper 1 (11/2 pound) pork tenderloin, sliced crosswise into 1/4-inch-thick medallions Mild oil, such as canola 2 baguettes, each cut into 3 6-inch lengths and split 3/4 cup mayonnaise 3 scallions, white and tender green, cut into matchsticks 1 small cucumber, cut into matchsticks Leaves and tender stems from 1 bunch cilantro Spicy sauce, such as sriracha Lime wedges Swirl: In a blender, swirl fish sauce, sugar, soy, chopped scallions, garlic and pepper. Pour into a ziptop bag. Add pork. Chill 2 to 24 hours.

Sizzle: Heat a thin film of oil in a wide skillet over medium heat. Add half the pork and sizzle deep brown, about 1 -- 2 minutes per side. Repeat with remaining pork.

Build: Hinge open each bread set. Spread each side with 1 tablespoon mayo. Pile on pork and vegetables. Add a squeeze of hot sauce and lime, if you like. Close, squish, munch.

Leah Eskin is a Tribune Newspapers special contributor. Email her at [email protected].

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