(Omaha World-Herald (NE) (KRT) Via Acquire Media NewsEdge) May 16--Nearly five years after its launch in a former TCBY in Miracle Hills, the Taj is staying true to two things: great Indian flavors and budget-friendly prices.

The small restaurant still isn't much to look at: black-metal chairs, peach paint and a slanted wall of windows that probably was cool in 1979.

The food's not as spicy as it once was; the owner scaled back the peppers to better suit local palates.

And the servers, although cute and friendly, can be bumbling.

But based on two recent visits, the Taj still offers delicious, nicely priced northern Indian fare. And it still draws regular, diverse crowds for lunch, dinner and takeout -- always a good sign.

On a weeknight visit with two vegetarian friends and their nearly 3-year-old son, I found a dining room nearly filled with Indian-looking 30-somethings, families with children and couples of nearly every age group.

A lanky, shaggy-haired server in a T-shirt pushed two small tables together for us and passed out well-explained menus, which held lots of options for vegetarians, vegans and the gluten-intolerant.

(The vegetarian section is the menu's largest. None of the sauces is thickened with cornstarch or flour. And the predominant starches are naturally gluten-free chickpea flour, potatoes and rice.)

The room was quiet enough for conversation and loud enough for the little guy to play pirates with Dad without drawing annoyed stares.

There was no kids menu. But the mildly seasoned, skewered-and-roasted tikka meats, battered-and-fried pakora vegetables, basmati rice, naan flatbread, mango-yogurt lassi milkshakes and sweet rice pudding called kheer seemed like natural choices to share with children.

As the lone meat-eater at our table, I got the brightly colored tandoori mixed grill, a sampling of all the marinated meats made in a charcoal-fired clay oven known as a tandoor.

Served with the house rice and a saucer of delicious dal (lentils in a sweet brown curry sauce), it was more than enough for two.

The stunningly red seekh kabob, a roasted sausage of ground lamb that gets it brilliant color from spices including turmeric and cumin, was moist and surprisingly spicy.

Orange-yellow chunks of marinated tikka chicken, removed from their skewers, were a little drier than I like.

But the fall-apart middles of the boti kabob (marinated, skewered and grilled chunks of lamb) were delicious and tender, and the bright red chicken breast and thigh were moist and rich with the flavor that comes from roasting on the bone.

My friend's vegetable korma -- cauliflower, peas and carrots in a cream-and-cashew sauce -- was pure comfort food.

The standout that night, though, was the unassuming channa masala, a dish of cinnamon-and-cardamom-infused chickpeas with diced tomato, onion and cilantro, served over a heavenly scented basmati rice flecked with a few saffron-soaked grains and the occasional whole clove or green cardamom pod.

It had a lovely harmony of layered flavors that made me eager for another bite -- and reminded me what I love about Indian cooking.

Owner Raj Khanal later told me it's his top vegetarian dish.

Dinner entrees ranged from about $10 to $14, with beverages, breads and desserts all less than $3.

A smaller menu of lunch specials served on weekdays offered an even better value: entrees (with rice, appetizer and salad) for $6 to $8.

The lamb in the lamb korma was supertender and lacked the gaminess that often dissuades newcomers. Khanal later told me that's because he marinates the meat in ginger and garlic.

The chicken vindaloo had a delicious vinegar-tomato sauce, chunks of potato and chicken, and a comfortable heat that grew the more we ate. (Our server didn't ask, and we didn't specify, a heat level. But Khanal said there's a 1-to-5 heat scale, and unspecified orders usually get a 3.)

Of the appetizers we tried, I particularly enjoyed the paneer pakora, sort of an Indian version of fried mozzarella with marinara. The Taj makes its own paneer -- a mild, white, semisoft cow's milk cheese -- dips slices of it in a batter of chickpea flour, lemon juice, turmeric and other spices, then fries it. It's served with a sweet, creamy tomato dipping sauce.

Naan was tasty, too -- a big round cut into four quarters, drizzled with olive oil. And almond naan, studded with golden raisins, added interest and balance when eaten with spicier dishes.

Housemade desserts at the Taj center on milk, sugar and nuts.

Ras malai involved cold, spongy, strangely dry slices of cake-like paneer in sweetened, reduced half-and-half.

Gulab jamun was two warm fried balls of a super-rich sort of cake made from boiled milk. They swam in a sweet syrup scented with rosewater and dusted with crushed pistachio nuts.

Kheer was a sweet rice pudding in cardamom-infused milk with almonds and raisins.

My favorite was the dessert I tried this week after learning it, too, was made in-house: the kulfi, a not-too-sweet but very rich pistachio ice cream topped with a thin layer of crushed nuts.

Quibbles: Servers don't use trays, so drinks and dishes came to the table in two-at-a-time spurts.

There were a few order mix-ups. (Example: We got a meat version of a vegetarian appetizer we ordered).

Pacing was off. Appetizers arrived with, or just after, the entrees. On one visit, a waiter brought the check and boxes before asking about dessert.

And on both occasions, the tables were too small to comfortably corral our shared feasts.

Those forgivable faults may disappear when the Taj moves to a larger space a few doors away this summer.

More tables should mean a shorter wait during peak hours and more time to enjoy multiple courses. Larger tables should mean more room for sharing dishes family-style.

And the Taj's continued focus on layered flavors and reasonable prices should ensure it an even larger following.

--Contact the writer: 444-1069, nichole.aksamit@owh.com

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