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The newest crop of skin brighteners
(Business World (Philippines) Via Thomson Dialog NewsEdge)Like clockwork, cosmetics and skincare companies began launching their newest whitening lines earlier this year. While most of them will only be available in the next few months, the clamor for these products continues unabated.
For a couple of years now, big companies like Clinique have been coming out with extensive whitening lines formulated for Asian skin. Its Active White Lab Solutions, however, will soon be replaced with Clinique Derma White. Even the Dallas-based direct selling company, Mary Kay Inc., has joined the bandwagon with its own range for Asian skin.
The saying "the grass is always greener on the other side of the fence" continues to hold true when it comes to one's skin tone. While most Asians limit their exposure to the sun, Caucasians can't get enough of it.
In her book, Skin in The Tropics: Sunscreens and Hyperpigmentations (Anvil, 2001), dermatologist Vermen M. Verallo-Rowell points out the differences between Asian skin and the skin of people who live in more temperate climes. She also deals with skin-related questions in a straightforward manner but to the question on how to make brown skin white, the doctor's initial reaction is one of unease at how some people still consider white skin the ideal.
"This is a personal issue and the time will come when more people can appreciate what they have, referring as much to those with white skin desiring a tan as to those with brown skin desiring to be white," Dr. Verallo-Rowell writes.
In an earlier interview with dermatologist Gilbert C. Yang, he told BusinessWorld that "we are all born with a fixed amount of melanin that no product can claim to lessen or increase.
"One can attempt to block the production of melanin by applying certain products topically. There is a 50-50 chance of success, however, as not everyone responds in the same way to a particular product," he said.
It is therefore important to read labels and to know what to look for. Dr. Yang's list of time-tested active ingredients include retinoic acid (or retinol), azelaic acid, and hydroquinone (2% or 3%). Other skin lightening ingredients to keep an eye out for include alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs); kojic acid, a fungal, metabolic product popular in Japan; Vitamins C and E; licorice; and arbutin, a natural extract derived from pears and a source of hydroquinone.
In her book, Dr. Verallo-Rowell stresses the importance of avoiding products that claim to lighten skin but do not show ingredient labeling.
"This is important in determining product efficacy and the cause of an irritation when using these products," she writes.
For Dr. Yang, the daily application of sunblock on all exposed areas of the skin is essential.
"It's really important to apply a sunblock with at least an SPF of 15 every single day whether it's sunny or cloudy out," he said.
Philippine Dermatological Society president Dr. Lorna Frez is also a staunch believer in this first line of defense. In an earlier interview, she said that prevention, not just sun avoidance, is key.
"One should regularly use sunscreen and wear protective clothing. What is more important is that your skin is healthy," Dr. Frez said.
Two years ago, Clinique came out with a range of whitening/brightening treatment and makeup products formulated for Japanese and Asian women. Dubbed Active White Lab Solutions, the line contained an antioxidant cocktail combined with activated water technology.
This time, however, the company sought advice from accomplished dermatologists in the field of hyperpigmentation. Company officials realized that since skin discoloration could be caused by any number of factors, there was no one, foolproof solution.
What they did agree on was that for a whitening system to be effective, it had to focus on three key actions: exfoliation to diminish the appearance of spots; the use of an active essence for melanin dispersal; and protective/preventative measures.
The resulting regimen, Clinique Derma White, consists of a slew of skincare and makeup products designed to be used daily or only occasionally. Active ingredients include acetyl glucosamine, salicylic acid, a proprietary blackout yeast extract, and either chamomile extract or Vitamin C. The ancient herbal extract Yang-Kuei-fei which the company incorporated in the Active White Lab Solutions line is still present in the new range.
Now, the product mix consists of skin type-appropriate cleansers, lotions and moisturizers as well as an essence, fast-drying mask, hand cream, and sunblock, among others.
The newly revamped White Recovery EX line from Shu Uemura goes beyond melanin inhibition to focus on balancing four aspects. First, it protects skin from free radicals and then it soothes it. Next, it moisturizes to elevate skin barrier function and lastly, it revives "skin turnover" to release melanin naturally.
The range now consists of two kinds of lotions (toners), an essence, intensive whitening treatment, emulsion (moisturizer for oily skin), cream, a whitening mask and a facial massage gel.
Some of the active ingredients include gentiana extract, a Vitamin C derivative and the brand's patented Depsea water. The two new ingredients are ougon extract, a dried root commonly used by the Chinese that when tested in vitro exhibited anti-darkening properties; and fruit extracts.
The star product and most expensive item (P5,595) in the White Recovery EX line is the whitening essence that is supposed to "reduce the size, number and intensity of one's dark spots."
Sekkisei
Japanese brand Sekkisei is expanding its whitening line with the introduction of Recovery Essence Excellent. This treatment product contains Japanese and Chinese herbal extracts in a delivery system that is easily absorbed by the upper layers of the skin.
Aside from its list of commonly used herbs like Mugwort extract and Licorice flavonoid, the essence contains moisturizing Sasa Veitchii extract.
Mary Kay
This direct selling company that posted almost $2B in sales at the wholesale level in 2004, recently came out with its own whitening line available only through Mary Kay sales associates.
Dubbed PureWhite System, the line targets skin discoloration while lightening existing spots. At the press launch last week, company officials said that based on their findings, women aged 16 to 60 years old want fairer, even-toned and younger-looking skin. A common complaint among their mature clients is age spots.
With continued use of the PureWhite regimen, one is supposed to see results in as short as two weeks. After eight weeks, women who tried it reported a 50% reduction in freckles and age spots.
Dr. Verallo-Rowell might take issue with Mary Kay, however, since the company doesn't list the active ingredients in its whitening line, only stating that it was "formulated with Lucentrix, a patent-pending blend of ingredients."
Shu Uemura is distributed by L'Oreal Philippines and is available at Rustan's Makati and Shangri-La Plaza in Mandaluyong. Sekkisei and Clinique are distributed exclusively by Rustan's. For more information on Mary Kay, call 859-6211 or visit their website at www.marykay.com.ph.
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